Bumthang

Imagine a lake where legends come alive — where treasures lie beneath the surface and the flame of faith never flickers. Welcome to Membartsho, Bhutan’s mystical Burning Lake.

Membartsho, also known as Mebar Tsho (Dzongkha: མེ་འབར་མཚོ།), is one of Bhutan’s most sacred sites. It is famed as the location where Pema Lingpa, the nation’s most celebrated tertön (treasure revealer), discovered several hidden treasures (terma) of Guru Rinpoche in the 15th century. The lake is approximately 30 minutes by car from Chamkhar town, followed by a short five-minute walk from the road to reach its banks.

History & Legends

Situated in the Tang Valley near Bumthang, Membartsho is known as the “Burning Lake.” According to legend, Pema Lingpa had a vision directing him to a specific spot in the Tang Chuu river. Upon examining the depths, he saw a temple with one door open. Diving into a vast underwater cave, he received a treasure chest from a one-eyed woman, only to find himself back on dry land.

Skeptical villagers and the ruling Penlop challenged his claims. To prove his authenticity, Pema Lingpa held a lit lamp and declared: “If I am a true treasure revealer, I will return with the treasure and the lamp still burning; if I am false, I shall drown.” He dove, and shortly after, emerged holding a statue, treasure chest, and the lamp still alight, convincing all of his genuine powers.

The treasures revealed at Membartsho include a self-manifested Guru statue, sacred scrolls, and ritual skulls.

Spiritual Significance

The lake is renowned for its tranquil beauty and spiritual energy. Dr. Karma Phuntsho describes it as a “Ney,” a place where natural and spiritual energies converge, creating a powerful environment for meditation and spiritual growth. It is believed that enlightened beings can see the temple beneath the waters.

Pema Lingpa also prophesied a center of learning for women in the Tang Valley, which came true with the establishment of Pema Tekchok Choling Nunnery in 2000 by Gangteng Tulku Rinpoche, the ninth reincarnation of Pema Lingpa. The nuns maintain the sacred site, storing butter lamps near a small cupboard on the wooden bridge crossing the lake’s narrowest point.

Around Membartsho, tsatsas — small conical clay mounds engraved with sacred symbols — are placed as offerings, sometimes containing human ash or bone, dedicated to the living or deceased.

Perched above the Chamkhar Valley, Jakar Dzong is more than a fortress, it is a living chronicle of Bhutan’s spiritual and royal heritage, where legends of kings, lamas, and divine omens converge.

Overview & Location

Jakar Dzong, also called Jakar Yugyal Dzong, is the principal fortress of Bumthang District in central Bhutan. It overlooks Jakar town from a ridge in the Chamkhar Valley and was built on the site of an earlier temple established by Ralung hierarch Yongzin Ngagi Wangchuk (1517–1554) during his visit to Bhutan. Spanning over 1,500 meters in circumference, it is considered one of the largest dzongs in the country.

The name Jakar comes from bjakhab, meaning “white bird,” inspired by a local legend in which a white bird landed at the site, indicating the ideal location to build a monastery. Officially known as Yuelay Namgyal Dzong, it commemorates victory over the Tibetan ruler Phuntsho Namgyal.

Historical Significance

Built in 1549 by Ngagi Wangchuk, Jakar Dzong served as a strategic fortress for eastern Bhutan. By 1646, it became the seat of Bhutan’s first king after Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal established central authority.

During the 17th century, the ruler of Tsang, Phuntsho Namgyel, launched two attacks against Bhutan. The dzong was damaged but later restored by the Trongsa Penlop. In 1679, Tibetan forces camped nearby, and with no formal army, locals sought help from protective deities called Choe Chhong Chamdal Sum.

The dzong was sanctified by Tenzin Rabgay, and Longwa, believed to be the reincarnation of King Sindhu Gyab (Sindhu Raja) as foretold by Guru Rinpoche, was appointed the first Dzongpon (governor).

Legacy

Jakar Dzong remains a symbol of Bhutanese resilience, spirituality, and royal lineage, drawing visitors to explore its monumental walls, historic courtyards, and panoramic views of the Chamkhar Valley.

Where history, legend, and spirituality converge, Kurjey Lhakhang stands as a living testament to the miracles of Guru Rinpoche and the enduring faith of the Bhutanese people.

Kurjey Lhakhang (སྐུ་རྗེས་), or Kurjey Monastery, is located in the Bumthang Valley, Bumthang District, Bhutan. It is historically significant as the final resting place of Bhutan’s first three kings. Behind one of the temples, a large tree marks the site of a terma (hidden treasure) left by Guru Rinpoche.

Legend and Mythology

According to local tradition, Sindhuraja, the ruler of Bumthang, fought a battle against King Nawchhe (Big Nose). Despite seeking divine aid, Sindhuraja lost his son, and in anger, destroyed local shrines. This angered the guardian deity Shelging Karpo, who stole Sindhuraja’s sog (life force), leaving him gravely ill.

Desperate, one of Sindhuraja’s attendants reached out to Padmasambhava in Nepal, offering a cup of gold dust. Padmasambhava traveled into Bhutan via Nabji Korphu along the Mangde Chhu, and requested Sindhuraja’s daughter, Moenmo Tashi Khuedron, in exchange for healing.

To lure Shelging Karpo from hiding, Padmasambhava initially performed a cham dance, which failed. He then instructed Tashi Khuedron to fetch water in a copper vase, and using sunlight reflected from it, attracted the deity from his cave. Shelging Karpo was subdued, appointed as a protector of the Dharma, and Sindhuraja’s life force was restored.

The cave bears the body imprint of Padmasambhava, giving it the name Kurjey, and the water fetched by Tashi Khuedron, Kurje Drupchhu, is considered sacred and capable of healing.

Kurjey Lhakhang Complex

The monastery complex consists of three main structures:

Guru Lhakhang — built beside the cave where Padmasambhava meditated and subdued Shelging Karpo.

Sampa Lhundrup Lhakhang — a temple dedicated to spiritual practice.

Ka Goen Phur Sum Lhakhang — completing the sacred trio.

Kurjey Lhakhang continues to be a vital pilgrimage site, drawing devotees and travelers alike to witness its legendary stories, spiritual energy, and cultural heritage.

Jambay Lhakhang, also known as the Temple of Maitreya, is located in Jakar, Bumthang District, Bhutan. It is considered one of the 108 temples constructed by Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo in 659 CE in a single day. According to legend, these temples were built to pin down a supine demoness, preventing her from obstructing the spread of Buddhism.

As per locals, the demoness was believed to have been blocking the propagation of Buddhist teachings. Temples were strategically built over her body across Tibet, Bhutan, and surrounding regions. Among the most famous of these are Jokhang in Lhasa, Kichu in Paro, Bhutan, and Jambay Lhakhang in Bumthang.

Many of the lesser-known temples in Bhutan have not survived, but some, including Könchogsum in Bumthang, Khaine in Lhuntse, and two sites in Haa District, are thought to be part of the original 108 temples. Historical accounts note that Padmasambhava visited Jambay Lhakhang, and it was later restored by King Sindhu Raja after Guru Rinpoche returned his life force. Over time, the temple has undergone multiple repairs and reconstructions to preserve its structure and sanctity.

Jambay Lhakhang Drup Festival

Jambay Lhakhang is renowned for its annual festival, Jambay Lhakhang Drup, celebrated in October. This five-day festival takes place from the 15th to the 19th day of the ninth month of the Bhutanese calendar in the temple courtyard. The festival commemorates the construction of the temple and honors Guru Rinpoche, who consecrated the site. Pilgrims and locals gather to witness sacred rituals, masked dances, and other traditional ceremonies that celebrate the temple’s historical and spiritual significance.